The wine-loving public has been sold a bill of goods by the unscrupulous paparazzi. In our rebellion against a confusingly technological world, we want wine to be the one un-messed with thing. But it isn’t. And we wouldn’t want it to be a province of benign neglect, because its making requires great skill, attention, and laying on of hands, heart and brain. Wine is highly manipulated by nature. What we can demand of our vintners is candor. I believe this is the real gripe. But like a suspected errant husband, they must be coaxed gently, from love for honesty rather than fear of discovery.